10.05.2016 - A decisão não impacta Patisiran ou qualquer outro programa terapêutico de RNAi em desenvolvimento - - a companhia para hospedar a chamada de conferência hoje em 5:00 da noite ET - CAMBRIDGE, Massachusetts - (BUSINESS WIRE) - Alnylam Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Nasdaq: ALNY), a principal empresa de terapêutica RNAi, anunciou hoje que, por recomendação do estudo ENDEAVOR Fase 3 estudo Data Monitoring Committee (DMC) para suspender a dosagem, a empresa decidiu interromper o desenvolvimento de revusiran, uma investigação RNA interferência (RNAi) Terapêutica que estava sendo desenvolvida para o tratamento da amiloidose hereditária de ATTR com cardiomiopatia (hATTR-CM). Esta decisão foi tomada ontem à noite e foi comunicada aos investigadores, locais de estudo e autoridades reguladoras. Na sequência dos recentes relatórios no estudo Fase 2 OLE de novo aparecimento ou agravamento da neuropatia periférica, o ENDEAVOR DMC reuniu ontem no pedido Companys para rever estes relatórios e dados ENDEAVOR em uma base não cegos. O DMC não encontrou provas conclusivas de um sinal de neuropatia relacionada à droga no estudo ENDEAVOR, mas informou a Companhia que o perfil benefício-risco para revusiran já não suportava a dosagem. Posteriormente, a Empresa analisou os dados de ENDEAVOR não cegos que revelaram um desequilíbrio de mortalidade no braço revusirano em comparação com o placebo. A segurança do paciente vem em primeiro lugar. Paramos todas as dosagens e estamos monitorando ativamente pacientes em todos os estudos com revusiran para garantir sua segurança. Também vamos continuar a avaliar os dados ENDEAVOR para entender a causa potencial desses achados, disse Ph. D. Diretor executivo da Alnylam. Embora este resultado seja decepcionante, dada a falta de opções de tratamento disponíveis para os doentes que sofrem desta doença devastadora, continuamos empenhados em servir as necessidades da comunidade amiloidose ATTR. Gostaríamos de agradecer aos pacientes, cuidadores, pesquisadores e funcionários do estudo que apoiaram o programa revusiran. A decisão de interromper o desenvolvimento de revusiran não afeta o patisiran, que está atualmente em fase 3 de desenvolvimento para o tratamento da amiloidose hATTR com polineuropatia (hATTR-PN), ou qualquer outro programa de investigação de Alnylam RNAi terapêutica em desenvolvimento. Com base em uma avaliação atual dos dados de segurança nos outros programas da Companys, que incluem o programa ALN-PCSsc em parceria com a The Medicines Company, não há evidência de um sinal de neuropatia relacionada a drogas em mais de 800 pacientes tratados e pacientes com exposição de até A 34 meses. Isso inclui o patisiran, que utiliza uma formulação de liberação de nanopartículas lipídicas, e os sete outros programas clínicos em Alnylams pipeline, que todos usam Enhanced Stabilization Chemistry (ESC) GalNAc tecnologia de entrega. Os conjugados ESC-GalNAc permitem níveis de dose e exposição 12-30 vezes mais baixos do que o revusiran, que utiliza a tecnologia de distribuição GalNAc de Chemistry Padrão (STC). A Companhia reafirma sua orientação Alnylam 2020 e permanece comprometida com o avanço destas terapias RNAi em investigação para o tratamento de doenças com alta necessidade médica não satisfeita. Se houver alguma dúvida com relação a este anúncio, por favor, ligue para a Linha de Informação sobre Ensaios Clínicos no número 866-330-0326 (ligação gratuita nos EUA) ou 617-575-7400 (Internacional). Alternativamente, você pode enviar e-mail quaisquer perguntas ou comentários para clinicaltrialsalnylam. Informações de teleconferência A administração da Alnylam discutirá esses desenvolvimentos em uma teleconferência transmitida pela web na quarta-feira, 5 de outubro, às 17h00. Uma apresentação de slides também estará disponível na página de Investidores do site da empresa, alnylam. Para acompanhar a chamada de conferência. Para acessar a chamada, disque 877-312-7507 (nacional) ou 631-813-4828 (internacional) cinco minutos antes da hora de início e consulte a conferência ID 94969575. Uma repetição da chamada estará disponível a partir de 8: 00 pm ET. Para acessar a repetição, favor discar 855-859-2056 (doméstica) ou 404-537-3406 (internacional) e consultar a conferência ID 94969575. Sobre ATTR Amiloidose A amiloidose ATTR é uma doença progressivamente debilitante e muitas vezes fatal causada pela deposição de transtirretina (TTR) em tecidos periféricos. A proteína TTR é produzida principalmente no fígado e normalmente é portadora de vitamina A. Na amiloidose hereditária ATTR (hATTR), as mutações na TTR causam a acumulação de proteínas amilóides anormais e danificam os órgãos e tecidos do corpo, como os nervos periféricos eo coração, resultando em Em neuropatia sensitiva periférica intratável, neuropatia autonómica e / ou cardiomiopatia. A amiloidose hereditária ATTR representa uma grande necessidade médica não satisfeita com morbidade e mortalidade significativas amiloidose hATTR com polineuropatia (hATTR-PN) - também conhecida como polineuropatia amiloidótica familiar (FAP) - afeta aproximadamente 10.000 pessoas em todo o mundo e amiloidose hATTR com cardiomiopatia (hATTR-CM) Também conhecido como cardiomiopatia amiloidótica familiar (FAC) - estima-se que afete pelo menos 40.000 pessoas em todo o mundo. Os pacientes com hATTR-PN têm uma expectativa de vida de 5 a 15 anos a partir do início dos sintomas e as únicas opções de tratamento aprovadas para a doença em estágio inicial são transplante de fígado e tafamidis (aprovado na Europa, em alguns países da América Latina e Japão, onde é aprovado Todas as fases da doença). HATTR-CM é fatal dentro de 2,5 a 5 anos de diagnóstico eo tratamento está atualmente limitado a cuidados de suporte. Amiloidose sistêmica de tipo selvagem (wtATTR) - anteriormente chamada amiloidose sistêmica senil (SSA) - é uma forma não-hereditária de amiloidose cardíaca TTR causada por deposição idiopática de TTR de tipo selvagem, cuja prevalência é geralmente desconhecida, mas está associada à idade avançada. Existe uma necessidade significativa de novas terapêuticas para tratar pacientes com amiloidose ATTR. Sanofi Genzyme Alliance Em janeiro de 2014, a Alnylam ea Sanofi Genzyme, unidade de negócios globais de cuidados especializados da Sanofi, formaram uma aliança para acelerar e expandir o desenvolvimento ea comercialização de terapêuticas de RNAi em todo o mundo. A aliança é estruturada como uma aliança geográfica multiproduto no campo das doenças raras. A Alnylam mantém os direitos de produto na América do Norte e na Europa Ocidental, enquanto a Sanofi Genzyme obteve o direito de acesso a certos programas no atual e futuro laboratório Genetic Medicines no resto do mundo até o final de 2019, Direitos de comercialização e direitos globais de desenvolvimento para certos produtos. No caso do patisiran, a Alnylam avançará o produto na América do Norte e Europa Ocidental, enquanto que a Sanofi Genzyme irá avançar o produto na ROW. Sobre Conjugados de GalNAc e Conjugados de GalNAc-siRNA de GalNAc Os Conjugados GalNAc-siRNA são uma plataforma proprietária de distribuição de Alnylam e são projetados para alcançar a administração direcionada de terapêutica RNAi a hepatócitos através da captação pelo receptor de asialoglicoproteína. A tecnologia de Alnylams Enhanced Stabilization Chemistry (ESC) - GalNAc-conjugado permite a dosagem subcutânea com maior potência e durabilidade e um amplo índice terapêutico. Esta plataforma de distribuição está sendo empregada em quase todos os programas de gasodutos Alnylams, incluindo programas em desenvolvimento clínico. Sobre RNAi RNAi (RNA interferência) é uma revolução na biologia, representando um avanço na compreensão de como os genes são ligados e desligados nas células, e uma abordagem completamente nova para a descoberta de drogas e desenvolvimento. Sua descoberta foi anunciada como um grande avanço científico que acontece uma vez a cada década, e representa uma das mais promissoras e rapidamente avançando fronteiras na biologia e descoberta de drogas, que foi premiado com o Prêmio Nobel de 2006 de Fisiologia ou Medicina. RNAi é um processo natural de silenciamento de genes que ocorre em organismos que variam de plantas para mamíferos. Ao aproveitar o processo natural biológico de RNAi ocorrendo em nossas células, a criação de uma nova classe de medicamentos, conhecida como RNAi terapêutica, está no horizonte. O pequeno RNA interferente (siRNA), as moléculas que medeiam RNAi e compreende a plataforma terapêutica RNAi de Alnylams, alvejam a causa de doenças silenciando potencialmente mRNAs específicos, prevenindo assim que as proteínas causadoras de doenças sejam feitas. Terapêutica RNAi têm o potencial para tratar a doença e ajudar os pacientes de uma maneira fundamentalmente nova. Sobre a LNP Technology A Alnylam possui licenças para a propriedade intelectual da Arbutus Biopharma LNP para uso em produtos terapêuticos RNAi usando a tecnologia LNP. Sobre a Alnylam Pharmaceuticals A Alnylam é uma empresa biofarmacêutica que desenvolve novas terapêuticas baseadas na interferência de RNA, ou RNAi. A empresa está liderando a tradução do RNAi como uma nova classe de medicamentos inovadores. Alnylams pipeline de RNAi investigação terapêutica é focada em 3 Estratégico Terapêutica Áreas (STArs): Genética Medicamentos, com um vasto oleoduto de RNAi terapêutica para o tratamento de doenças raras Cardio-Metabólica Doença, com um gasoduto de RNAi terapêutica para geneticamente validado, Expressou metas de doença para necessidades não satisfeitas em doenças cardiovasculares e metabólicas e doenças hepáticas infecciosas, com um gasoduto de RNAi terapêutica que abordam os principais desafios de saúde global de doenças infecciosas hepáticas. No início de 2015, a Alnylam lançou sua orientação Alnylam 2020 para o avanço e comercialização da terapêutica com RNAi como uma classe inteiramente nova de medicamentos inovadores. Especificamente, até o final de 2020, a Alnylam espera alcançar um perfil de empresa com 3 produtos comercializados, 10 programas clínicos terapêuticos de RNAi - incluindo 4 em estádios avançados de desenvolvimento - nos seus 3 STArs. A empresa demonstrou compromisso com RNAi terapêutica tem permitido a formar grandes alianças com empresas líderes, incluindo Ionis, Novartis, Roche, Takeda, Merck. Monsanto, The Medicines Company e Sanofi Genzyme. Além disso, a Alnylam mantém uma posição acionária na Regulus Therapeutics Inc., uma empresa focada na descoberta, desenvolvimento e comercialização de terapêuticas de microARNs. Cientistas e colaboradores da Alnylam publicaram suas pesquisas sobre a terapêutica com RNAi em mais de 200 artigos revisados por pares, incluindo muitos dos principais periódicos científicos mundiais como Nature, Nature Medicine, Nature Biotechnology, Cell, New England Journal of Medicine e The Lancet. Fundada em 2002, a Alnylam mantém sua sede em Cambridge, Massachusetts. Para obter mais informações sobre Alnylams pipeline de RNAi investigação terapêutica, visite alnylam. Alnylam Forward Looking Declarações Várias declarações nesta versão relativas Alnylams expectativas futuras, planos e perspectivas, incluindo, sem limitação, opiniões Alnylams com relação ao potencial de RNAi terapêutica, incluindo o desenvolvimento contínuo de patisiran, as suas expectativas em relação à sua interrupção do desenvolvimento de revusiran, E sua avaliação contínua dos dados de segurança do seu revusiran e outros ensaios clínicos, suas expectativas em relação à segurança e tolerabilidade de seus produtos no desenvolvimento clínico, incluindo produtos que utilizam conjugados ESC-GalNAc e suas expectativas em relação à sua estratégia de crescimento de pipeline STAr e seu Alnylam 2020 para o avanço e comercialização de terapêutica RNAi, constituem declarações prospectivas para os fins das disposições de porto seguro no âmbito do Private Securities Litigation Reform Act de 1995. Os resultados reais e planos futuros podem diferir materialmente daqueles indicados por estes prospectivo Declarações como resultado de vários riscos importantes, incertezas e outros fatores, incluindo, sem limitação, Alnylams capacidade de descobrir e desenvolver novos candidatos a drogas e abordagens de entrega, demonstrar com sucesso a eficácia e segurança dos seus produtos candidatos, os resultados pré-clínicos e clínicos Para os seus produtos candidatos, que não podem ser reproduzidos ou continuar a ocorrer noutras matérias ou em estudos adicionais ou de outro modo apoiar o desenvolvimento de produtos candidatos a uma indicação especificada ou em tudo, acções ou aconselhamento de agências reguladoras, Os candidatos, além da decisão de Alnylams de interromper o desenvolvimento de revusiran, que podem afetar a concepção, iniciação, cronograma, continuação andor progresso de ensaios clínicos ou resultar na necessidade de pré-clínicos adicionais e ou testes clínicos, atrasos, interrupções ou falhas na fabricação Fornecimento de seus produtos candidatos, obtendo, mantendo E proteger a propriedade intelectual, a capacidade da Alnylams de fazer valer seus direitos de propriedade intelectual contra terceiros e defender sua carteira de patentes contra os desafios de terceiros, obtendo e mantendo aprovação regulatória, preços e reembolso de produtos, progresso no estabelecimento de uma infra - , A concorrência de outros utilizando tecnologia semelhante ao Alnylams e outros desenvolvendo produtos para usos semelhantes, a capacidade Alnylams para gerenciar seu crescimento e despesas operacionais, obter financiamento adicional para apoiar as suas actividades empresariais, e estabelecer e manter alianças comerciais estratégicas e novas iniciativas de negócios, dependência Alnylams O risco de investigações governamentais e despesas inesperadas, bem como os riscos discutidos mais detalhadamente nos Fatores de Risco arquivados com Alnylams mais recente Relatório Trimestral no Formulário 10- Q arquivado com A Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) e em outros arquivamentos que a Alnylam faz com a SEC. Além disso, quaisquer declarações prospectivas representam opiniões de Alnylams apenas a partir de hoje e não devem ser consideradas como representando suas opiniões a partir de qualquer data posterior. A Alnylam renuncia explicitamente a qualquer obrigação, exceto na medida exigida por lei, de atualizar quaisquer declarações prospectivas. As informações científicas discutidas neste boletim de notícias relacionadas com Alnylams investigação terapêutica é preliminar e investigativo. Nenhuma das terapias experimentais de Alnylams foi aprovada pela Food and Drug Administration dos EUA. Agência Europeia de Medicamentos. Ou qualquer outra autoridade reguladora e não podem ou devem ser tiradas conclusões quanto à segurança ou eficácia destas terapêuticas. Alnylam Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Investidores e Mídia) Christine Regan LindenboomWeeks Chevrolet Semanas Chevrolet IN Benton, IL - SERVINDO Mt. Vernon, IL CLIENTES DE CHEVROLET Obrigado por visitar Semanas Chevrolet em Benton, IL. Não hesite em contactar o nosso departamento de vendas para obter uma cotação. Opções de financiamento da investigação. Ou marcar uma consulta para testar um dos nossos novos veículos Chevy, incluindo o novo Cruze. Equinócio. Ou Silverado 1500. Venha para a nossa concessionária Benton, ou nos dar uma chamada ou e-mail se você tiver alguma dúvida. Semanas Chevrolet tem sido o primeiro concessionário Benton Chevrolet de carros novos, caminhões e SUVs. No nosso concessionário você encontrará um enorme inventário Chevrolet. Semanas Chevrolet - A Mt. Vernon amp West Frankfort VENDEDOR DE CHEVROLET ALTERNATIVE Semanas Chevrolet é um West Frankfort, Marion, e Mt. Vernon Chevrolet revendedor alternativa, servindo a todos de Southern Illinois. Você pode confiar em nossos funcionários amigáveis e experientes para ajudá-lo a encontrar aquele veículo novo ou usado perfeito em um ambiente livre de estresse. Para sua conveniência, foram aberto seis dias por semana. Weeks Chevrolet está localizado em 1627 N. Main Street em Benton - apenas um par de quarteirões a leste da Interstate 57. Benton Chevrolet motoristas, entre em contato conosco para saber mais ou visite nosso concessionário hoje Semanas Chevrolet Oferece Serviço e Peças para Benton e Mt. Vernon, IL Chevrolet Drivers No Semanas Chevrolet em Benton, IL, temos um excelente serviço e departamento de peças dedicado a fornecer a melhor qualidade de reparação, trabalho corporal e manutenção de serviço para o seu veículo. Nossa concessionária pode cumprir todas as suas necessidades de manutenção regular, tais como mudanças de óleo, rotações de pneus e freio empregos, bem como serviço agendado para o seu novo Benton Chevrolet carro, caminhão ou SUV. Sinta-se livre para nos dar uma chamada ou agendar um compromisso de serviço on-line. Semanas Chevrolet está confiante de que você vai encontrar o que você quer atender às suas necessidades em nosso Mt. Vernon, IL fonte do negociante de Chevrolet. Financiamento e opções de leasing disponíveis em Benton, IL semanas Chevrolet trabalha com uma variedade de credores para trazer-lhe o melhor negócio possível em um novo ou usado Chevrolet carro, caminhão ou SUV. Se você não tem certeza se leasing é a opção certa para você, podemos ajudar a responder a essa pergunta. Faremos tudo o possível nas semanas Chevrolet para obter o veículo que você quer e permanecer dentro do orçamento. Para saber mais sobre nossas opções de financiamento, entre em contato com nossa concessionária Benton Chevrolet hoje Nossa equipe está pronta para ajudá-lo. DISCLAIMER: As modificações descritas no texto a seguir são apenas para fins educacionais. Em nenhuma maneira eu recomendo que você aplique estas modificações a sua própria motocicleta. Se você optar por seguir adiante e modificar sua motocicleta com base nas informações contidas neste documento, você aceitará toda a responsabilidade por suas próprias ações. O (s) autor (es) desta FAQ e host (s) que o (a) fornecerão para si não assumem qualquer responsabilidade. Se você não está qualificado para fazer qualquer uma das alterações aqui descritas, mas está inclinado a fazer a modificação, procure um amigo experiente ou mecânico profissional para obter assistência. Geral: O TTR250 tem um refrigerado a ar, 4 tempos, 4 válvulas, DOHC único com arranque eléctrico, seis (relativamente próximo ratio) caixa de velocidades e freios a disco dianteiro e traseiro. Proprietários tendem a ser muito entusiasmados com o modelo e justificadamente. Eu sou um tal entusiast e quando eu comecei primeiramente meu TTR eu esforcei-me para encontrar toda a informação nele - daqui este FAQ desenvolveu. Estou agora no meu terceiro TTR (um novo modelo de 2004) e ainda acho que eles são a melhor bicicleta de volta todo-volta ao redor Eu vivo em Devon, um condado no belo sudoeste do Reino Unido, que tem uma abundância de estradas não pavimentadas também Conhecida por cavaleiros no Reino Unido como quotgreen lanesquot. Em geral, os TTRs são muito bem feitos com alguns toques agradáveis como guardas de cadeia decente, raios robustos, braço oscilante de liga sólida nos modelos Open Enduro, visor de óleo do motor, tubo de cabeça de aço inoxidável de diâmetro grande, amortecimento traseiro ajustável à mão E, nos modelos azuis, um tanque de plástico e back-up kickstart. Começa bem e tem um motor silencioso suave com uma embreagem leve e lotes de baixo-baixo torque. As engrenagens são agradáveis e fecham e dão a aceleração relativamente rápida nas engrenagens mais baixas e, antes que você comece ao 6o, você tem uma engrenagem apropriada elevada da estrada. Muito confortável para montar com bastante firme e suspensão bem amortecida. O motor é bastante sofisticado para um caroço refrigerado a ar e incorpora um carburador pumper. A Yamaha cuidadosamente colocou os tubos de respiro do carburador sobre a caixa de ar e tem válvulas unidirecionais nos tubos de drenagem que impedem o corte em águas profundas. A versão legal da estrada estava disponível no Reino Unido entre 2003 e 2005 e Yamaha UK importou oficialmente aproximadamente 781 unidades. TTR250s são particularmente adequados para aqueles que começam em equitação de trilha. Eles não são muito altos (e as ligações de redução estão prontamente disponíveis para aqueles com uma perna curta dentro) e têm o começo elétrico todo-importante. Tendo tirado um monte de quotnewbiesquot trail riding, um começo elétrico pode fazer a diferença entre exaustão e uma experiência agradável como, invariavelmente, haverá lotes de stalling e talvez alguns offs suave. Quatro cursos em particular não gostam de ir horizontal - reiniciar sem um começo elétrico pode ser difícil. O TTR lida com lindamente off-road e pode ser chucked em curvas e flicked em torno de uma forma impressionante. Ele também faixas muito bem através, e em toda, rotinas. A suspensão é muito boa e absorve solavancos e raízes muito bem, mas não chafurdar ou fundo para fora sobre os gritos maiores. Em áreas onde há um pouco de roadwork a ser coberto entre as pistas, a caixa de seis velocidades entra em seu próprio. Yamaha WRs, Honda CRFs etc todos sofrem de ser buzzy na estrada, porque eles têm apenas cinco engrenagens. O TTRs assento confortável de todo o dia é um bônus adicional quando comparado com as tábuas de navalha-como que passam para assentos em algumas bicicletas off-road. Yamaha TT250R (4GY1) Voltar ao topo da página Pré-Y2K (branco) modelos. Existem basicamente dois modelos: o Open Enduro eo Raid. O TTR é um traillie muito civilizado que o UK Trail Bike e Enduro Magazine (TBM) descrito como sendo as quotas civilizadas como é competente. Apenas um punhado de TTRs foi importado para o Reino Unido em 1995 por Mitsui Yamaha e nunca foram classificadas como importações quotofficialquot. Eles parecem não ter vendido bem - não porque eles werent boas bicicletas - mas por causa do que foi descrito como um preço de cotação de preço mínimo no momento de mais de 4.000. Parecia haver uma grande quantidade de importações entre 1993 e 1995 (geralmente de plástico branco e tanques de metal), após o que parece haver uma lacuna até que o novo quotbluequot TTR (tanques de plástico) tornou-se disponível e vendido oficialmente pela Yamaha no Reino Unido. Algumas das partes comuns são permutáveis com outras marcas de offroaders, e. Pastilhas de freio, mas a bateria de gel é peculiar ao TTR. O modelo Open Enduro tem um conjunto de suspensão bem especificado com unidades ajustáveis frente e traseira. A extremidade dianteira de direção rápida muito capaz tem um eixo principal e forquilhas com amortecimento de ar com mais de 10quot de viagem. A parte traseira tem Yamahas própria subida da taxa monoshock com um reservatório remoto que permite o ajuste para compressão e rebote amortecimento e cerca de 10quot de viagem como para os garfos da frente. Ele tem um quadro de seção de caixa de aço com um braço de aliado swing pesados e anéis de roda anodizado roxo distintivo que você quer amor ou ódio O motor prospera em revs, mas tem fundo inferior suficiente para plonk ao longo de baixas rotações e ainda puxar limpa de nada. Citado em 28bhp 8,500rpm As diferenças entre os modelos de Raid e Open Enduro: o tanque é maior no Raid, portanto, se você preenchê-lo até a sua ir para adicionar peso acima e acima do OE a montagem farol no Raid é mais adequado Para a estrada ou o uso em experimentações da noite mas é um artigo razoavelmente pesado (peso de 4lbs comparado a 1lb 4oz da unidade de plástico de OE) com uma barra de proteção de aço macia o Raid não tem a compressão traseira ajustável que amortece isto é quotHard-Softquot clicker ajuste na parte traseira Choque quotreservoir Considerando que a maioria dos OEs têm os painéis laterais Raids são mais como pods - há uma caixa de plástico útil sob a mão esquerda um contendo o tamanho da cadeia kit ferramenta e engrenagem é diferente com um 520 no Open Enduro e um 428 no Raid A subestrutura traseira também é diferente, como são os arranjos de assento o assento Raid é menor (cerca de 35 fora do chão em comparação com o OEs 36,25) e mais plana. Seu projetado para mais se sentou para baixo, trabalho de longa distância, mas é muito melhor do que o OE se você quiser levar um passageiro traseira footpegs sobre o Raid são montados separadamente no quadro sub e no Open Enduro são ligas pequenas montadas diretamente para o Subestrutura. O braço oscilante Raid é de aço - é liga em outros modelos TTR Spec. Para OE está nesta FAQ Voltar ao topo da página Modelos Y2K (azul). Desde aproximadamente 2000 todos os TTRs novos tiveram plásticos azuis quotYZquot e tanques plásticos. Eles são baseados na versão Open Enduro em vez da Raid. As forquilhas dianteiras têm válvulas de ar para ajustar a taxa de mola e um parafuso de ajuste de amortecimento para ajustar a força de amortecimento. O amortecedor traseiro tem o ajuste de reload de mola usual, o seletor de ajuste de força de amortecimento de repercussão e um botão de ajuste de força de amortecimento de compressão. O TTR250 é bem conhecido na Austrália por ter vencido campeonatos nacionais de enduro Os modelos vendidos na Europa têm elétrico e kick start como padrão tornando-os quotdual startquot, bem como ter revisto (mais rápido) geometria de direção e suspensão. Os TTRs que foram fornecidos para os EUA são apenas partida elétrica. O TTR250 ainda estava disponível novo na Austrália (e o quadro mudou para preto) até 2012. Foi também duplo começo Aparentemente os TTR 1999 vendidos na Austrália, apesar de ser os modelos de tanque de plástico azul, tem a embreagem de 6 chapas eo motor mais velho Do modelo quotwhitequot TTR instalado Voltar ao topo da página Quanto devo pagar por um TTR250 No Reino Unido, os TTRs quotwhitequot mais antigos revendem entre 800 e 1.400 com modelos azuis em bom estado, custam 1.800 para cima. Os novos TTRs não estão mais disponíveis no Reino Unido. O TTR250 ainda era uma importação quotofficialquot para a AustraliaNZ até 2012. Voltar ao topo da página Uncorking o TTR250 Dois mods de brinde para começar com: 1. Olhe sob o tanque em sua ligação de acelerador e você vai notar que o Sr. Yamaha instala um parafuso de parada que limita Você a menos do que o regulador de pressão cheio. Ajuste o parafuso para permitir o curso completo da articulação do acelerador, mas para detê-lo pouco antes do obturador do acelerador atinge a parte superior do carburador. Alguns pilotos levar o parafuso completamente fora, mas eu wouldnt recomendar que. 2. Se você não tiver um modelo dos EUA, remova o restrictor de escape na parte traseira do tubo de cabeçalho - detalhes mais abaixo. Se você tem um modelo dos EUA, retire o parafuso no final da exaustão e puxe o defletor, mas não faça isso se você montar onde há leis de pára-choque. Ambos permitirão que sua moto respire um pouco melhor. O próximo vai te custar uma pequena quantidade: 1. Substituir o filtro de ações com um filtro de pós-venda como o da Twin Air. 2. Puxe o snorkel de borracha para fora do topo da caixa de ar apenas se você não andar através de águas profundas Alguns proprietários recomendam apenas cortar o snorkel cortando-lo de volta um degrau no topo e dois degraus na caixa de ar em si. 3. Rejetar a moto para atender. 4. Substitua o pinhão dianteiro padrão por um dente de 13 dentes - isso melhorará as capacidades de aceleração e off-road dos TTRs sem prejudicar a velocidade máxima. Ganhos de desempenho serão óbvios. A coisa que você vai notar mais é que o motor vai acelerar mais rápido. Se você montar em alta altitude, e não tem cruzamentos de água para se preocupar, em seguida, além de remover o snorkel, você pode considerar furos de corte no topo da caixa de ar, mas apenas certifique-se de que você rejeite para atender. O próximo vai te custar muito mais: Substituir o silenciador padrão com um mercado de reposição. Isto adiciona poder e dá uma economia de peso significativa. Se trail equitação no Reino Unido (ou qualquer outra área sensível do mundo), por favor, certifique-se de sua substituição é uma calma Não queremos perder nossas trilhas e pistas verdes apenas para ganhar um pouco de energia e som legal. Veja este excelente tópico por Aaron Cooper do fórum ThumperTalk que explica tudo isso em mais detalhes e com fotos: STOP PRESS - Aaron atualizou seu quotstickyquot em ThumperTalk em 25 de Junho de 2007 com novas ligações para os jactos etc .. Aaron - é um super - recurso útil para proprietários de TTR250 que procuram um pouco mais poder. Voltar ao topo da página Acerbis 22lt Modelo TTR250 - mas muito raro. No Reino Unido tente Rally e Overland. Nomad traseira tanque opções, 4.5lt até 8lt. Custom montagem dos tanques Honda XR250400 e ou 600650 after-market. Nômade bum tanque 8lt. Pontos positivos - para ter um abastecimento de combustível separado, se a moto tem um grande acidente de queda, etc Bad pontos - ele remove a opção de um pillion, piloto não pode deslizar para trás para a parte traseira do assento nos passeios mais longos estrada, e ou rack traseiro , Acrescenta peso sobre o quadro traseiro sub e eleva o centro de gravidade, bem como a ponderação do lado esquerdo da moto (não é perceptível) 17lt (Honda XR250400) IMS tanque. Pontos positivos - um extra de 7 lts de combustível, tanque não é muito grande por isso não muda a sensação da moto para muito. Bad pontos - precisa de ter um pouco justo de mucking sobre para obter os parafusos na frente para alinhar, e assento precisa ser remodelado para caber até arrumado. 23lt (Honda XR650) Acerbis fez tanque. Boa pontos - cargas de combustível, (eu recebo 500 km com pinças 1542), se encaixa em linha reta até os pontos de montagem TTR (usando suportes Honda e parafusos Yamaha), não muito grande, embora grande o suficiente para ter joelhos descansando perfeitamente para mim nos passeios mais longos , Duas torneiras de combustível, se um lado danificado fechá-lo fora e correr a partir do outro. Tomará um tampão de bloqueio de Acerbis por preocupações de segurança (eu descobri que não ventilação muito bem e requer um pouco de liberação a cada hora ou assim para a pressão para escapar). Pontos ruins - um monte de peso quando cheio, e companheiros tendem a hassle você para o combustível quando sua maneira lá fora. -)) Links abaixo que eu me deparei, pensei que isso poderia ser útil: Voltar ao topo da página O que devo olhar para fora ao comprar um TTR Geralmente não muito dá errado em um que foi mantido bem. O speedo eletrônico nos modelos quotwhitequot é muito caro por isso é um item óbvio para verificar. Também, os arrancadores elétricos e as embreagens do sprag podem ser artigos caros para substituir assim que verific que tudo soa APROVADO - escutar especialmente para fora para o bang temido ao matar o motor. Caso contrário, é o habitual quatro verificações de curso (ver a minha lista de compradores abrangente compradores), além de levá-lo em uma boa corrida para verificar o manuseio, embreagem, controles, etc Em bicicletas metal-tanked, verifique se os cantos inferiores do tanque arent enferrujado onde Eles esfregam contra o assento. Isto desgasta a pintura fora e permite que a umidade sente-se de encontro ao tanque e oxida-o afastado. Se a aba de lama que protege o choque traseiro foi danificada (e cujo hasnt). Verifique se o amortecedor está funcionando, pois eles podem perder o amortecimento se a haste do amortecedor ficar pitted com corrosão. Voltar ao topo da página Datando um TTR de seu número de quadro O número de quadro é o número de identificação do veículo ou quotVIN. quot O dígito de 10 do VIN para qualquer veículo fabricado após 1980 identifica o ano de fabricação. O VIN está localizado na haste de direcção da estrutura e não deve ser confundido com o número de série do motor nas caixas do motor. O VIN tem 17 caracteres. Open Enduro 4GY1 4GY-000101 a 025000 é 19934 Raid 4GY3 4GY-025101 a 044000 é 19945 Open Enduro 4RR1 4GY-049101 a 068000 é 19956 Raid 4GY5 4GY-068101 a 081000 é 19956 Raid 4WA1 4GY-081101 a 083000 é 19967 Open Enduro 4RR2 Possivelmente 4GY-083101 a. 000 é 1997 000101 foi lançado no 4 º mês de 1993 025101 3 º mês de 1994 049101 3 º mês de 1995 068101 4 º mês 1995 081101 3 º mês 1996 083101 1 º mês 1997 Aparentemente, o manual Haynes mostra: 1999 modelos - quadro no. Começa com 5GF2 2000 modelos - JYACG07W - YA002045 e JYACG7Y - YA000309 Meu 2002 tem número de quadro JYADG02XX Y A002881 Meu 2004 tem número de quadro JYADG02X7 4 A007241 Spare 2004 tem número de quadro JYADG02X0 0 008462 Sugeriu-se que, a partir do ano 2000, Dígito indica ano de fabricação, mas que doesnt sempre parecem funcionar. Se verdadeiro o meu quot2002quot TTR foi fabricado 2 anos antes de ser registrado Veja a tabela abaixo: Voltar ao topo da página Amperes de corrente e informações de engrenagem para usar em um Open Enduro para trail riding 13-48 ou 14-52 gearing é um bom Em amp off road compromise. O padrão em quotwhites era 14-44. Meu 2002 euro azul importação veio com 13-48 e um spare 14 pinhão dianteiro na caixa quotsparesquot. Front sprocket - Renthal part number is 342A-520-13 or 14 or 15 (assuming you are running a 520 O ring chain which I hope you are) or Talon TG415 13T or 14T. Talon may also do the 15T. Rear sprocket - Renthal part number for the Ultra-Lite rear sprocket is 131B-520-48 for 48 tooth - substitute 52 for 52 tooth. Chain. The 520R3-108 chain is a decent quality Renthal 108 link chain which fits my 13-48 sprocket combination exactly. I think 112 is needed for the 14-52 combo. An alternative chain as used by ToroTrail is a Tsubaki MX Alpha MX O Ring Chain ref 520MXA-118. Renthal sprockets and chains are available in the UK from BampC Express 01522 791369 email salesbandcexpress. co. uk Also see the selection of chains and sprockets at Totally TTRs The thread on the retaining nut is RH and doesnt need to be excessively tight as it should have a lock washer which has two tabs so it can be used twice. This needs to have the tab bent back with a blunt chisel or similar before you can undo the nut. In the UK we have something called quotSods Lawquot which says that the only time you will break the last good tab off the lock washer is when your local bike shop is closed for a week I wouldnt advise trying to re-use a tab that has already been bent. They arent expensive so keep a couple of spares just in case - either from here or from your Yamaha parts dealer Part Number 90215-23265-00 To undo the nut (anti-clockwise) . I just put a socket between the sprocket and the frame to stop the sprocket turning. The bigger front sprocket is easier on the chain. Chain noise increases when you replace the original Yamaha sprocket with a plain one as the original has a substantial ring of rubber built in to quieten things down. Any bigger back sprocket than 48 may need the bottom chain guide modifying although I fitted a 52 with no problems. In the UK, Totally TTRs stock part 45-791, the chain bottom guide block which fits the quottwo boltquot UK system. US models come as standard with a bigger rear sprocket (52) and therefore already have the deeper guide block. Standard gear ratios are: 1st 2.467 2nd 1.813 3rd 1.364 4th 1.080 5th 0.889 6th 0.759 Leaking oil from sprocket seal The seal size is 25x40x6 and the seals are available cheaply from Totally TTRs (see here ) as well as your friendly local Yamaha dealer Back to top of page Handlebars and levers As a six footer, I found the original handlebars a little cramped and they didnt encourage me to get up on the pegs. I fitted Renthal Enduro High bars (previously known as Dakar Highs) and they are a lot better for me. However, it is likely that you will need longer throttle and clutch cables especially if you also fit bar risers. Venhill has made up a batch of longer throttle and clutch cables for the TTR - available here. In the UK, the full range of Renthal bars are available from BampC Express - but for the Enduro High bars the part numbers are 613-01-BU (Blue) - GO (Gold) or - SI (Silver) - see here Levers. Levers are swappable between OE, Raid and blue models. They are often listed for sale on eBay or copy levers which fit well are available in the UK here. Back to top of page Can I convert the digital speedo from kph to mph For the digital speedos, there is now a clever device called the SpeedoDRD that not only converts from kph to mph (and the other way around) but also allows accurate corrections for different gearing to get the speedo reading nearly 100 right. The blue Euro TTRs have analogue kmh speedos driven by cable from the front wheel. The UK quotofficialquot machines have an mph speedo Back to top of page More speedo information: a) What do the blue and red buttons do on the digital speedo The blue button switches between two trip gauges so can record two different distances. If you hold down the blue (AB) button for a few seconds it switches the display from the clock function to the overall mileage function and back again. The red button is reset and if you hold it down for a while, about a minute, when the clock is displayed you can set the clock when it is flashing. The hours will flash first and you push quickly the reset button to change them, then push AB or blue button to go to minutes and set minutes the same. Then just press AB again to go back to normal display. b) Digital speedo sender unit - this is often the cause of a quotdeadquot speedo - it was with mine. Replacement for quotwhitequot TTRs is Yamaha part number sender unit 4GY-83755-01 - priced at 119.98 inc. VAT plus PampP as at October 2010. It seems that most sensor failures are due to moisture entering the unit and causing the Hall sensor to fail. See here for how to make a cheap repair Thanks to Sergey for the information. If you dont fancy doing the job yourself an exchange service is available from Totally TTRs . c) Another problem on digital speedos is that the magnet located on the front sprocket can disintegrate - part number 4GY-8354W-00. Replacement inc. VAT is 70.04 as at February 2016. To make a replacement magnet look here. Thanks again to Sergey for the information. If you dont fancy doing the job yourself an exchange service is available from Totally TTRs d) Wiring arrangement for the digital speedo head - courtesy of quotfastfazerquot Having tested the connections with a multimeter I believe the connections are: Red 12v Brown 12v Yellow 5v into the speedo from the speed sensor at the sprocket. This is the pulse wire, the pulse is sent as 5v, -5v, 5v, -5v etc. Blue 5v out to the speed sensor. BlackYellow 0v (Negative) out to the speed sensor. Black 0v (Negative) Connecting 12v to the Red wire lights the speedo up but with no LCD display. Connecting 12v to the Red amp Brown lights it up amp powers the LCD display. e) If you have terminal speedo problems Paul Bates suggests fitting a WR400 speedo drive unit and cable direct on to a DT125 clock, fits straight on apparently - no need to worry about gearing change and km to miles - fits like a glove no hassle he says. Alternatively, Clifford Eves said quotAfter having problems with my digital speedo, and not wanting to pay a fortune for a new pick up sensor, I decided to convert it to cable . Just in case anyone else wants to do this I used a speedo drive, speedo and cable from a DT125LC. It all went straight on - just had to make a bracket for the speedo itself and all for 20.00 from eBayquot f) For mechanical speedos . as fitted to UK blue models, Yamaha only sells the speedo drive mechanism in one piece (part number 4PX-25190) - price inc VAT is a whopping 79.79 plus VAT as at February 2016 But it is usually only the three-tab quotdrivequot washer that fails and these are no longer available separately. However a stainless steel after-market tab washer is available from Totally TTRs. The speedo cable from a DT125LC Mk3 is apparently a very good (and cheap) replacement for the original. Back to top of page What tyres and tubes are best for on and off road use MT43s do it for me In my opinion, the ideal for UK (muddy and stony) trail riding is probably something knobbly (but road legal) such as a Michelin Comp IV on the front and a trials tyre such as the 4.00x18 Pirelli MT43 on the rear. A word of warning - the MT43 is quite a quottallquot tyre and is liable to chew your mudflap and swing arm if you dont give it enough room. Other riders views on tyre choice follow: Pat Bullen says quotAfter a seasons use I can recommend Trelleborgs Army Specials as long lasting, very grippy and suits the TTRs steering geometry well - quite forgiving in ruts for some reason. quot Ian Packer says - Bridgestone TW301 amp TW302: Work excellently on road and fine for off road trailing in dry or wet hard conditions. However the tread is too close for deep glutinous mud which will fill them and not get thrown out - they turn into slicks. Still usable on trails provided care taken in mud. Wear rates are very good. Michelin Enduro comp 3 amp comp 4: Excellent for muddy ruts and loose sloppy conditions. Throws the mud out well and grips well and predictably in all conditions. Soft compound so high wear rates on hard surfaces. Feel horrible on road particular above 60 mph. Perfect tyre for the British winter off road. Brian Morris (Thailand) says quotFitted a set of Bridgestone ED 660 661 at Christmas 2004. They are DOT approved. Both tires have very good grip in most conditions but back tire wore very quickly and have had to replace already. Front tire is still perfect. quot Some recent recommendations include the Michelin AC10 - a road legal MX tyre. Apparently good in mud, and with the large blocks, will last a long time. Down side is that you will not be able to do UK rallies on them as they are illegal for most rally and enduro use. Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes (4mm thick) helps prevent punctures but they have to be run at relatively high pressure to make them quotfillquot the tyre so they dont move and rip the valve out. Also, use good rim locks to prevent the tyres spinning on the rims and ripping the valves out e. g. Talon forged 1.60 front and 2.15 rear. Back to top of page Yes A comprehensive 325 kit is available from Thumper Racing who sell big bore kits for a wide range of dirt bikes. I have fitted the kit to my 2004 TTR and it transforms its performance. Nothing beats extra ccs for some extra performance. The kit has so far proved totally reliable and the TTR is a joy to ride both on the trail and on the road. See this excellent thread by Bryan Wedmore from the ThumperTalk forum which explains about fitting the kit in more detail and has some helpful pics. Thanks Bryan - it is a very helpful resource for TTR250 owners looking for a bit more power and better front suspension: thumpertalkforumshowthread. phpt521772 There is a cheaper alternative to get a few extra ccs but it doesnt compare to going the big bore route The Wiseco quot280quot kit which is basically a new oversize forged piston taking it to 263cc (NOT 280cc) and involves boring of cylinder liner only with no crankcase alterations. A mate of Lance Parsons did it and says it results in more bhp and torque and says he can pull wheelies in 4th gear (13-52 gearing) - he also fitted a 35mm carb and got more bhp amp acceleration - had his exhaust ports bored out by Phil Manning, and again got more bhp and quicker pick up. Back to top of page Can I fit an oil cooler Yamaha used to sell an oil cooler kit - part number YAM-4GY-WO793-00 - cost 285 Australian at the beginning of 2002 but this has now been discontinued but you may be lucky and find some new old stock or a second-hand one from a breakers yard. The kit came with everything you needed and could be installed in about an hour. The hardest part was removing the clutch cover to replace an existing blanking bolt with a 10mm longer one to blank off the internal oilway and divert the oil around radiator part of the cooler - see photograph. The kit even came with a new clutch cover gasket. You get about 12 litre more oil capacity and prolongs the life of the oil dramatically. Anybody with basic tools and mechanical knowledge can do it. Some good advice is to fit a bash plate to protect the oil lines which run from the crankcase to the radiator. I am not aware of a suitable after-market kit that can be recommended but some good information on the TTR250 forum here. Second-hand ones available here . Back to top of page Can I (i) change my metal tank for a plastic one or (ii) get a bigger tank for Desert Rallys etc (i) Yes - according to Alev Bill you can install a blue plastic or an Acerbis or even a XR250400 tank. All you need some modification. Two metal plates bolted on the front engine mount would do it. Thanks Alev (ii) Yes again - Acerbis do a 22 litre plastic tank. Back to top of page Oil changing. The oil filter is a common off-the-shelf Yamaha part - the Yamaha Part No is 1UY-13440-02-00. The filters most commonly found for sale on the internet are HiFlo. The mesh style ones are HF142 and the paper ones are HF141. The best I have found are the Filtrex filters - see here. 1 litre of oil is needed for the metal-tanked models and 1.1 litres for the later plastic-tanked TTRs - unless you have a oil cooler on then it maybe a little more. Lance Parsons was advised to use a semi-synthetic oil and uses Castrol GPS quotExtreme Protection at High Temperature Semi-Synthetic 4 Stroke Motor Cycle Oilquot which claims to be quotan advanced semi-synthetic 4 stroke engine oil formulated to maintain a tough renewing layer of protection for bikes ridden hard. Castrol GPS provides excellent wet clutch performance and consumption controlquot. Lance changes his oil every 1,000km but thats down to you to decide. If you have just driven a hard 3.5hr Hare amp Hounds then I would probably advise changing it I use Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil. Haynes Manual Recommended lubricants for EngineTransmission are: Type: API grade SE or SF multigrade oil, Viscosity: 40-degrees F(5-degrees C) or above:20W40 or 10-degrees F(-10-degrees C) or below:10W30 Tyler Watts says: All these engines ask for is good oil and for it to be changed regularly. You can even use average off the shelf stuff from the service station (Im not recommending it though) as long as you change it regularly. Regularly depends on your riding. Off-roading, hill climbing, overlanding etc would require more regular changes approx. 500-1,000 miles. Less strenuous riding like commuting could extend this. A good tip for knowing when to change the oil is if youre riding along sedately and just short-shifting through the gear box, you will notice the changes get more clunky or stiff. It is simply the gearbox saying its used all the good lubricating the oil can offer and would like some new oil. My engine had never been opened after 20,000miles, and was great. All that went wrong was a cylinder base gasket leaking, and then a nit on the end of the spanner putting the timing wrong and turning over the engine, ramming the piston into the intake valves. Otherwise, she is amazing and the mileage is loads higher now Back to top of page For bash plates in the UK, try Totally TTRs where a high quality bespoke bash plate is available. Back to top of page Need a grab handle for your blue TTR Dave Maddock has recently bought the quotmissingquot LH (exhaust side) grab handle - part number was 4PX-F1275-00 - costs 58.08 inc VAT (as at February 2016). The RH grab handle is part number 4GY-2127A-00 and was 46.21 inc. VAT retail as at February 2016. Apparently the handles are part of the UK road-kit (along with a few other bits) and arent listed on the fiche. The dealers have a separate booklet for these parts. The UK spec bikes should already have them fitted but most of the parallels and semi-official ones dont. The US models dont have the mounting brackets on the frame. Grab handles are available in the UK here . Back to top of page The TTR is fitted as standard with a gel-filled battery pre-filled with battery acid (GS Valve Regulated Lead-acid battery) part number GT7B-4. The first letter (G, C or Y) denotes the motorcycle battery manufacturer amp can be substituted for another letter depending on the make of battery, for example: YT7B-4, CT7B-4, GT7B-4 are all the same battery. They cost about 30 on UK eBay (inc. VAT and delivery) as at August 2015. Dimensions: 148mm long (along front) x 64mm wide x 90mm high, 12 volt, 6AH and approx 85 EN cold cranking amps. Back to top of page In the UK, these were approx. 310 - not cheap - but are now sadly no longer available from Yamaha. The only way possible now is to use a second-hand kickstart mechanism from another TTR engine - see ttr250TTRretrofittingkickstart. htm Kick start kit installation by Nik Codling 280502 Having installed the Yamaha kick start kit for the TTR250 myself, I thought Id share my experiences with others, and hopefully make the job slightly easier for anyone attempting it. First thing to note is that it cant be that hard I managed it ok, and its pretty straightforward The instructions that come with the kit are probably really good. I say probably, as it is more suited to those who have a good grip of Japanese, being as it is written entirely in said language The Japanese language is visually very pretty, although my grasp of it is roughly equivalent to my grasp of female logic (very small), although I did once try Sushi. The instructions do have a few diagrams, which certainly give you the basic information to be able to complete the job, although there were a few occasions where I had to make a couple of guesses First job is to remove the right hand engine cover. You will probably find this is made easier by removing the brake pedal (just undo the pivot bolt) and the foot peg (two hexAllen head bolts). The engine casing itself is retained by a number of hex (Allen) head bolts. You will also have to remove the oil banjo bolt above the oil filter. A good idea when you remove these is to place them down on a clean surface, and lay them out in the order they came out the bolts vary in length and its easy to mix them up otherwise. Of the three oil filter bolts you only need to remove the outermost one, although its a good opportunity to give the oil filter a clean while youre at it. Once all the engine cover bolts are out you can take the cover off, exposing the clutch assembly. Its at this point that you discover whether you remembered to drain the oil or not In my case I hadnt, and some lovely new semi synthetic deposited itself on my garage floor In order to install the kick start assembly you need to remove the clutch assembly. This may seem scary to the amateur mechanic, but its pretty easy. The clutch plates are held in by six bolts, with a 10mm head. Slacken these all off a little bit at a time try and undo them all evenly, and not one at a time, it puts less stress on the clutch basket that way. Once the bolts are undone, you can withdraw that clutch plates in one go, complete with the clutch cover plate (not sure the correct term) and the six bolts and springs. The clutch basket is retained by a large nut with a tab washer, and youll need a 27mm socket to undo it. Tap the tab washer out of the way, allowing access to the nut. At this point youll need to prevent the engine from turning over, in order that you can undo the nut. A professional mechanic would have a device to hold the clutch basket, and prevent it from turning. A less scrupulous mechanic would insert the largest spanner they have through the back wheel, but I wouldnt recommend this practice. Once the engine is held the nut is pretty easy to undo, and the basket can be withdrawn from the splined shaft. Behind this is a large flywheel (again, not sure of proper name), and this is retained by a castellated washer remove this, and off comes the flywheel. To the left of the flywheel is a small shaft, with a blanking piece on it, retained by a circlip. Remove the circlip and blanking piece. The shaft is then fitted with a circlip and washer, and one of the large gears supplied with the kit. This is held in place with a washer and circlip. Make sure you fit the gear the right way round (it should be obvious, depending on whether you can rotate it once fitted). Once this is in place you can re-fit the whole clutch assembly. You might want to take this opportunity to inspect the clutch plates, and make sure theyre within spec (use Vernier calipers to measure the thickness of the friction material). When re-fitting the clutch bolts be careful not to over-tighten (refer to workshop manual for correct torque). Next job is to fit the kick start stop. This consists of three small metal plates, which prevent the kick start shaft from being turned beyond a certain angle. You will find two threaded holes to the left of the clutch assembly that these are fitted to. Fit first the smallest plain plate, then the really thick one (ensuring that the big tab is pointing upwards), and finally the plate with the two tabs on it (with the tabs facing towards the left). Screw in the bolts to approx 10nM (i. e. not very tight you really dont want to strip the threads, but tight enough that they wont undo) and bend up the tabs to help prevent the bolts undoing. Next up, you need to fit the splined shaft that the kick start return spring hooks over. This goes into a hole towards the bottom, below where the kick start stop is. The hole isnt splined, and you may feel as though it isnt the right place. It is, its just that it needs a damn good whack to get it in there I started off using a nylon-faced mallet, but ended up using a lump hammer in order to hit it hard enough to get it in the hole Mind you dont over-do it though, after all, most of the engine consists of softer aluminiumalloy parts. Try and hit the shaft square on the end, so that it doesnt go in at a funny angle. Be careful not to put the shaft in all the way leave about 2-3mm of the splines sticking out. Now you need to assemble the kick start shaft itself. This is quite easy, and is illustrated in the instructions (refer to Shawn Crowells. jpg in the Yahoo Groups files area). First fit the big gear, and retain it with a washer and circlip. Then fit the ratchet note the orientation as per the above jpeg. Next is the smaller spring, large spring-retaining washer, and a circlip to hold it all in place. A washer is then slipped over the top of the circlip, prior to installing the shaft. At the other end of the shaft is the big kick start return spring. This is pretty straightforward, just hooking it in to the slot in the shaft flange. Within the spring sits the large, thick washer. This just sits in place and will be retained by the engine casing, once its in place. You can now insert the kick start shaft into the engine (make sure the washer is on the end of the shaft). It literally just sits in a circular recess. Once in place hook the kick start return spring over the splined shaft that you fitted earlier. Its worth checking that the splined shaft is fitted to the correct depth, by checking how square the kick start return spring is sitting. At this stage you may wish to make some adjustment to how much tension the kick start return spring has. As stated in the instructions, I felt it was a little weak - note the illustration showing the correct assembly of the ratchet piece, in conjunction with the kick start shaft flange. I therefore rotated the shaft assembly round by one spline, to give a little more pre-load to the spring. This is slightly tricky to explain, but becomes obvious once you trial fit the kick start shaft in place and try turning it by temporarily fitting the kick start lever. Once this is done youre ready to go about re-fitting the engine cover. First of all though, you need to remove the bung from the engine cover, in order for the kick start shaft to come through. I inserted an appropriately sized socket into the hole behind the bung, and gave it a whack, and out it popped. You can now re-fit the engine cover, oil banjo bolt, brake lever and footpeg, and all thats left is to fit the kick start lever, and off you go The whole job shouldnt take more than a couple of hours I was being careful and it took about three hours, but someone more proficientconfident would be much quicker than that (and probably wouldnt need this anyway). Ive written this from memory, and I may well have missed stuff out, but I think thats it Back to top of page A very useful thread on the TTR250 forum is worth looking at - see here. Starter motors and the associated sprag (one-way) clutch seem to be a weak point on TTRs if excessive noise when cranking or banging when switching onoff is ignored. A worn sprag clutch will kick back on shut dwn and strip the teeth off the starter pinion. Replace the sprag clutch to save a much more expensive rebuild. If you have leave it too long then, in addition to the stripped starter pinion, you may find that teeth on the starter gears are damaged and, in extreme situations, the generator cover will be cracked and start leaking oil. As at October 2013, the UK price of a new casing is 220.92 inc VAT (part number 4GY-15411-02-00), the small idler gear is 103, large idler gear is 93.95, new flywheel bolts 4, and crankcase gasket 5. A friend of mine, Adrian Harris, rebuilt a TTR starter, to replace the mangled pinion gear, using an armature centre and good pinion from a more common Matsui starter. Check out dirtybiking. co. uk. Peter from France says he has found an easier solution than modifying an FZ600 starter He says it is possible to use one from a Honda 125 NX (or Transcity) and all you have to do is change the rear cover - everything else is the same. Thanks Peter Starter brush plate and brushes - the Mitsuba kit part number is SM-13R and the kit can be found on eBay. Starter motor brushes - the brushes for Honda TRX 250 300 350 440 450 500 quads fit and are advertised on eBay Back to top of page See here for my own guide. The following guide is from Tim Woods - thanks Tim The repair was fairly easy, but I have been working on bikes as a hobby most of my life, Im 45 now. The parts were under 70 (the one-way bearing costs 183 in UK - Oct 2013), and you will need a flywheel puller (Yamaha part number is 2K7-85555-00 - 8 in UK). The shop that I went to didnt have a puller in stock and they couldnt find one in the after market catalogue. What I found that worked great is a spark plug thread cleaner made by KD tools part 730 it has a 18mm x 1.5mm on one end (thats the size needed for the flywheel) and a 14mm x 1.5mm on the other end, its made from hardened metal. You will need an air impact to pull the flywheel there is no way to hold the flywheel from turning if you use a socket wrench. (Andy Yates says quotSoak components in WD40 or your favourite penetrating lubricant, stick the bike in gear, wedge a large lump of wood through the back wheel so it jams against the swing arm and cant rotate. Get someone to stand on the back brake. then stick a BFO length of scaffolding tube on your 12quot breaker bar and apply force. quot At your own risk though folks) 1 Drain the motor oil. 2 Lay the bike on its right side. 3 Remove the counter sprocket cover. 4 Remove the small cover, the one with three bolts, where the starter gears are. 5 Remove the starter gear under the cover (the starter doesnt need to be removed). 6 Remove the mag. side cover and lay it over to one side the wires dont need to be unplugged. 7 Remove the bolt in the end of the crankshaft. 8 Thread the flywheel puller in the flywheel. 9 Use an air impact to remove the flywheel. 10 Remove the six Allen head bolts from the front of the flywheel, they are put in with lock thread so they are tough to remove and the bolts will be junk after they are taken out. 11 The one-way bearing is now free to come off. 12 When you replace the new bearing use lock thread on the new Allen bolts, I used Red Locktite 721. 13 After the bearing is installed put the flywheel assy. back on the crankshaft, I used the air impact to install the bolt, but be careful and dont over do it. 14 Install the mag. side cover, with a new gasket. 15 Install the sprocket cover. 16 Fill the crankcase with 1100cc of oil. 17 Start it up and check for leaks. This was the first time I made this repair and it took me about two hours. Hope the info helps everyone, sure beats 60 per hour that the shop charges, and I like to know how everything inside the motor works anyway. (See also dirtybiking. co. uk ) Heres a list of parts you will need: 1 x One-way bearing part 4GY-15590-00-00 6 x Allen bolts part 90110-06091-00 1 x Side cover gasket part 4GY-15451-00-00 1 x Flywheel puller KD 730 from the auto parts store (or Yamaha puller has part number is 2K7 85555 00). PS Also see here for my own guide. Back to top of page Clutch plate information. I recently fitted a new clutch. The quotcorkquot or friction plates for both OE and blue models are 3XJ-16321-00-00. The OE and Raid models need 6 and the blue model needs 7 plates. The plain steel plates for the white and very early blue models are 3XJ-16324-00-00 (5 required) and the later blue models (6 required) are 3XJ-16324-01-00. Dont forget to soak your new friction plates overnight in engine oil before fitting New clutch springs are 90501-23763-00 for the 6 plate clutch and 90501-23391-00 for the seven plate clutch. I believe the later springs are shorter. All parts available here. Beware if buying second-hand parts as the clutch basket and cover are different between white and blue models as they need to be wider and deeper on the blue models to accommodate the extra plates. Back to top of page Fork Seals and refilling forks Fork seals are the same size across the models - 43x55x9.510 All Balls kits are probably the easiest to source. Check the fork bushing is OK before buying in your kit as, if there is wear, it is easy to renew the bushing whilst the forks are apart. A simple check is to get the TTR securely up on a stand with the front wheel off the ground. Grab both fork legs and see if there is any back and forth movement. Make sure that any movement isnt loose or worn steering head bearings though Oil type and capacity - Lances Haynes manual says: Capacity: 555cc, Type: Yamaha fork oil quot01quot or equivalent, Oil Level: 130mm (fork fully compressed and spring removed). Some owners take the opportunity to use a heavier weight oil such as a 5 or 10 weight to give a slightly stiffer fork action. For a guide on replacing TTR fork seals see: ttr250TTRrenewforkseals. htm Head stem bearing inspection or replacement. Ideally this job should be done by 2 people. Set bike up on stand with front wheel about 100mm off the ground. Pull off headlight cowling, undo the 3 bolts and pull forward headlightspeedo assembly, then unscrew speedo cable and unclip wiring, then remove the headlightspeedo assembly. (spraying a little CRC, RP7 or the like into the wiring clips doesnt hurt). Place a rag over the front mudguard as the handlebars and other bits will soon rest there. Keeping everything intact on the handle bars, just remove the 4 bolts and pull the bars forward and lay them on the front mudguard, all the wiring is long enough to accommodate this. Next undo the 4 bolts holding the front indicators to the forks, lay these indicators also on the front guard, (once again the wiring is long enough.) Remove the main nut securing the top forkhead stem bracket, then using a large screw driver, pry open the fork clamps on the top forkhead stem bracket. This bracket can now be removed. Place a block of wood under the front wheel so it is JUST supporting the weight. With one person standing in front of the wheel making sure it doesnt roll forward (it will want to very soon) remove cliplock nut, main nut. The whole front fork assembly will want to roll forward at this point. Supporting the weight of the wheel, remove the front chock of wood and gently lower the wheel to the floor. As the whole thing wants to roll forward be careful not to damage the thread, the top bearing will pop out when the wheel is lowered. The bottom bearing is now completely exposed so now both can be greased. One person can service the bearings while the other stops the wheel coming forward. Replacement bearings are part number 93332-00078-00 but in the UK are about 40 if you order the genuine Yamaha parts else an All Balls kit will do the job. When finished, lift the front wheel up (careful of the thread), place the wooden chock back under the wheel and install the top bearing and nuts (THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB) then fit things back in reverse order of the way they came off. Fork pinch bolts - torque setting is 23Nm the same as the handlebar clamp bolts. There you go, it sounds complicated but it is really quite simple and quick. Many thanks to Matt Selleck for this Back to top of page The spark plug gap for standard plug is 0.7 to 0.8mm Off Road Only (ORO) do the Splitfire range of plugs for the bike, if you use either the CR8E or the CR9E then the equivalent Splitfire is either the 430B or C. My 2002 and 2004 TTRs use NGK CR9E or Nippon Denso U27ESR-N plugs. For a few quid extra it may be worth going for an Iridium plug - NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUG CR9EIX CR9E-IX 3521 The standard spark plug requires a 16mm spanner. Spark plug torque 12.5Nm. See here for plugs and plug caps. Back to top of page It is possible to drop the front forks through the clamps to lose some height plus some owners have modified suspension link arms. Also there is an inch or so lowering available by backing off the spring on the rear shock absorber. There are a few lowering links available: a) Totally TTRs lowering link - see here b) The Kouba lowering link - see here The final solution quite often is to sculpt the seat foam - an electric carving knife does a neat job Back to top of page a) There is a range of workshop and owners manuals plus a parts catalogue available for download here . b) In the UK, you can go to your Yamaha dealer with your frame number to get a bound photocopy of an English service manual (not the smaller owners manual) - cost over 30. c) There is a Haynes manual on: Yamaha Trail Bikes 1981-00 Haynes 2350, PW5080, RT100180, TT-R90, TT-R225, TT-R250, XT225, XT350. Available to Rides List members at a discount from Mike Husband at Merlin books - see here. Covers only the American spec TTR250 quotplay bikequot but a UK TTR owner who bought it says its still very useful. Back to top of page The wheel bearing on the TTR250 are sealed. Replacing bearings can be a challenge until you get to know how they fit. The collars are press fit into the inner race of the bearings and you need a large drift or a press to get them out - be patient and careful Rear wheel takes 3 x 6022 2RS size - 22x44x12 and oil seals for wheel 2 x 28x47x7. Front wheel LEFT takes 1x 6003 2RS - size 17x35x10 and oil seal is 22x35x7. Front wheel RIGHT takes 1x6202 2RS - size 15x35x11 and oil seal 20x35x5 (digital speedo models only - blue TTRs dont use a seal on the speedo drive side). In UK, All Balls kits (which include bearings and seals) area available here. Back to top of page Clutch inhibitor switch replacement Totally TTRs in the UK can supply a replacement handlebar clutch inhibitor switch (part 44-022) that is not a direct replacement i. e. clip fitting different in clutch lever perch and the bullet connectors need cutting and soldering to the existing spade connectors but is less than half the price of the genuine Yamaha part (4GY-82917-01-0). See here. Hasse Prefect says: The TTR has a sidestand switch, a neutral switch and a clutch lever switch. Both the sidestand switch and the clutch lever switch you should bypass, the sidestand may bounce as you go over whoops and then the engine will cut out, also the cables may rip when going through bushes and stuff. The clutch lever switch (according to Sods law) will break down when you are very far from home and the sun is setting. It is nice to have the neutral light but it is by no no means necessary, bodging the clutch lever and sidestand switches should be enough - following the rule that quotif it is not there it cant breakquot. 26 April 2007 Be warned that safety switches are there for a reason and a nasty accident could happen if you drive off with the sidestand down. Back to top of page Adjusting the sag. Rear preload is set by having the suspension full extended. At full extension, measure from the centre of the axle to a point on the sub frame and note the distance. Next, with riding gear on, load the suspension with your weight positioned on the bike in your normal riding position. You might have to have someone assist you by keeping the bike upright Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the sub frame. You should have about 100 mm less distance with the suspension loaded. Adjust the preload on the spring until you get the 100 mm differential. After getting the 100 mm sag, next check your static sag . This is how much the bike settles from full extension with just the weight of the bike. You should have approximately 35 mm free sag. If your free sag is considerably more or less than 35 mm, you probably will need to exchange the spring. Thanks to Jack Hixson for this piece. Refurbishing a TTR rear shock absorber. The part number of the rear shock is 5GF-22210-00-P0 but a new one is very expensive so repairs are usually cost effective In the UK, Justin Gibbs at Saltash offers a superb service. Clique aqui para mais detalhes. Justin is also able to alter the ride height of the shock absorber if required. A DIY approach is described here. Parts for forks and shock. Race Tech sell rebuild parts for the front forks and the rear shock inc. the seal head, shock shaft bushing, bottom-out bumper, and reservoir bladder - click here for prices etc. Totally TTRs also now sell the seal head - see here Rear shock absorber springs. Most are yellow indicating it is the standard spring but I have seen the stronger red springs on a few TTRs. Apparently there is also a white spring for lighter riders but I havent seen one of those. Rear suspension linkages . It is recommended that you check the rear suspension links occasionally to check all the seals are OK. If water gets in then you will have problems. The original Yamaha needle rollers have the poly lube type so dont need greasing as such. A good tip is to WD40 the damper rod on the rear shock after power washing otherwise it could get rusty and pitted which would damage the seal head and you lose the damping - plus its expensive to repair Swing arm bearings: All Balls do a swing arm repair kit ref 28-1096 which includes all of the above. About 35 inc. pampp in the UK here. Installation guide here . Relay Arm bearings: In the UK, you can get an quotAll Ballsquot linkage bearing kit ref 2 7-1094 here w hich seems good value at 60 inc VAT and pampp especially as it includes the lower shock bearing. A pictorial guide to replacing the relay arm bearings is available here Rear shock absorber bearings. 1. LOWER SHOCK BEARING A pictorial guide to changing the lower shock bearing here . All Balls supply the bottom shock kit ref 17-8613 (or 29-5013) if you need to replace it. If you have a good source of cheap bearings then the part number is GE14ESK and the seals are quotClark Seals V5 18.5 x 26 x 2.7quot. All Balls advise to use waterproof grease or any good quality bearing grease. The collars on the bottom bearing came out easily by levering them off with a wide blade screwdriver. 2. UPP ER SHOCK BEARING HOWEVER, it was not the same story with the top bearing collars - Yamaha part no 90387-100Y3-00 (cost 11.16 for both). These collars have very wide quotflangesquot and my first attempt at levering them off with the screwdriver broke a large section off the flange - after a struggle I managed to get both flanges off but destroyed them in the process I have since successfully removed them in one piece by giving them a good soak of WD40 and then using a punch on the inside lip. Once one is out, the other is easily removed. The wire circlips are tricky unless you have a very fine screwdriver such as used for spectacle screws. It is possible to lever out the circlip just enough to get pliers on it or a bigger screwdriver behind it to get it out all the way. An easier alternative may be to drill or Dremel a groove in the shock body as far as the circlip to allow you to flip out the circlip with a sharp pick. It isnt possible to source the top quotspherical plainquot shock bearing as it is a quotspecialquot - inside diameter (id) 12mm, outside diameter (od) 26mm, inner ring width (ir) 15cm, outer ring width (or) 13mm. However, if you are prepared to compromise, it is possible to source alternatives. I used a GE12FO whose only difference is that the quotorquot is 9mm so it needed packing out. The alternative standard bearing has a slightly wider quotirquot at 16cm and I do wonder whether I should have used this one and perhaps found a way to take 0.5mm off each side. The Yamaha part number for their seals is 38V-22211-00-00. Since doing my repair, a much better alternative has come onto the market - see here Back to top of page Installing a Scotts Steering Damper on a 99. This article is courtesy of Paul Garlick - thanks Paul. I had the reaction post welded to the frame by a professional, but since I installed my unit I have seen a lot of Scotts dampers installed with the reaction post bolted or clamped to the frame. This makes it a DIY. job and the riders said they hadnt had problems with the post working loose. Personally I like the added integrity of the weld. I installed Renthal Jimmy Button bend hbars so that the damper would fit under the cross-bar. I left the settings stock for the first several rides (Scott recommends this), eventually I increased the low speed damping resistance one or two clicks. I havent adjusted the arc (steering angle) limits, the damper has adjustable arc limits to minimize arm pump. If you put the bike up on a stand you can feel the resistance when you swing the handlebars through their travel. Its not much. One of the sales features of the Scotts unit is that it has low speed and high speed damping circuits. Its the low speed side you can feel. The more low speed damping you wind in then the less effective the high speed circuit becomes. Its great, I ride in the woods with the roots and rocks and it really helps. I just makes you feel that you are having a good day. Its the high speed circuit that is working when you whack a tree really hard and the bike keeps more or less on track - instead of doing a tank slapper into the weeds. Back to top of page Clogging of front sprocket on white TTRs . It gets pretty tiresome removing the cover every time the bike gets near any dirt just to clean it out. Johnny Davies has modified the cover to allow mud etc to escape rather than build up into a nice compacted lump around the front sprocket - pictures in the Files area of the TTR250 Yahoo Group - in the quotsprocket cover picsquot folder. Looks simple but effective. An alternative is the bespoke alloy cover here The blue TTRs have a conventional speedo driven by a front wheel cable so dont suffer quite so much with this problem. Back to top of page Replacement decals It is possible to buy reasonably priced good quality replacement decals for your Open Enduro or plastic-tanked blue TTR. Karl Barker of DampD Graphics has produced some cracking designs. On request DampD will amend the kits to show the TTR250 web address. I have had these on my TTR for a while now and they fit well and are still looking very good. They are well perforated so there is minimal bubbling and any that do appear can be easily squeezed out. DampD now have graphics available for the WR250RX and newer DT125R models. Contact Karl Barker, DampD Graphics UK, email: infoddgraphics. co. uk. new website at ddgraphics. co. uk Karen Bunker has found another supplier at enjoymfg. I have had sets of their graphics and seat covers and the quality is superb. Thanks Karen Clint Smith says quotThe graphics are made in the USA and are very good qualityquot Seat covers. In the UK they are available here. Replacement for tail light and number plate holder (applies to UK) Stainless steel tail tidies are available here . Replace those big indicators I tend to fit a set of Motrax Micro Fairing indicators (Part number for the amber ones is FM1) to all my TTRs. Click here to see pic. Frame paint The early quotwhitequot TTRs frame paint colour is Yamaha Deep Violet Blue. A friend got some made up for a later OE model by RS Bike Paint and they call it quotYamaha 16590 French Bluequot. Using the information here it may be possible to get your local motor factors paint shop to make you up some on their mixing machine for the plastic-tanked TTRs. I cant find the metal-tanked models listed on their site. In Australia try Color Rite. For the later blue plastic-tank models, Dupli-Color sell a closely matching aerosol - DSSB09 Blue Mica (Subaru). Thanks to Les Chant in OZ for that info After-market plastics. You cant get after market plastic for the TTR except an MX style rear fender. You can put any aftermarket YZWR front fender on it though - just cut off about an inch in the back. Replacement fork gaiters. I know it is a matter of personal taste but I think black gaiters look a whole lot better on the quotwhitequot TTRs than the purple or pink ones. I have tracked down some after-market ones and they are Pro Grip PG2510 ref 2636511 and fit 4245 - 60 forks. Cost about 16 - available in blue or black from Totally TTRs and other bike shops. Back to top of page TTR250 - Street Legal in California (Courtesy of Tommy Vee) I recently legalized my TTR in California. Baja designs would be glad to sell you a complete kit to convert your bike but I just ordered the parts that I needed since the head and tail lights are dual filament bulbs (high beam and brake lights) and the bike already has an adequate battery and charging system. You can purchase the turn signals from a local bike shop such as Cycle Gear. Baja Designs supplied the turn signal headlight switch (pn 12-9005), the turn signal flasher, and the horn. I made up my own wiring harnesses but if you are not able to set up your own, Im sure that Baja designs would be able to supply the wiring kit also. Be sure to ask Baja for the turn signal wiring diagram for their switch. For the brake lights, I bought a hydraulic brake light switch from the local bike shop. The switch replaces the Banjo bolt on the rear hydraulic master cylinder. Once you have all of the lights brakes and turn signals and horn set up, check around with the local repair shops as the bike shops will do the brake and light inspection not the CHP. Call your local CHP office and get a copy of form CHP 888 as the DMV will ask you if you have read the form and you must certify that your bike complies with the requirements. Buy some insurance and rip that green sticker off so you can turn it in at DMV. Call the brake and light station and find out what they will check for. Remember to install a high beam indicator light. I bought a 12-volt mini lamp (blue) from Radio Shack and tie wrapped it to the front brake line guide ring next to the trip meter. Baja was very helpful you can get their 800 number from their website and call their technical services dept. If you are pretty good with wiring it should be a piece of cake. Boa sorte. TV Back to top of page Got a brand new TTR A mate imported a pair of Euro TTRs and they arrived in a crate with no information as to their preparation. Here are some tips that I found through the internet and from practical experience: try and read the manual to get to know the bike check and tighten any loose spokes - continue to check the spokes periodically to ensure proper tightness remove front and rear axles and coat with a high quality grease or copper based quotAnti-Seizequot. check header pipe (rear end) for restrictor washer and remove if found if you can face it, dismantle and re-grease rear suspension linkages before you use the bike - else you will never do it dismantle and check kick start, rear brake pivot and steering head, to make certain they contains sufficient grease in all the bearings the foot pegs have a particularly high tooth on the outside which is just right to catch in and tear your leggings - file them down take off the tyres and put them back into store for when you need to sell the bike - put on some decent rubber that suits the conditions YOU ride in Get to know the bike, as far as how it is put together. Do this by removing the plastics, fuel tank, and whatever else you feel like doing the more the better. It is likely that many bolts, nuts, etc. will be loose, or just not tight enough. Loose bolts can bewill be discovered while removing the plastic, etc - check all nuts and bolts and fittings for tightness and re-check regularly. On new bikes, some riders hear a strange tinny rattling or metallic whistling noise from the left-hand side of the engine on the over-run i. e. when you shut off the throttle in any gear. Steve Copsey tells us that the reason for this is that where the chain is new and tight it doesnt slip off the front sprocket as smoothly as it should and bends outwards as it leaves the lower edge. Basically it rubs against the lower section of the case-saver - take this cover off and you will see the rub mark. The answer is to file about a millimetre off and the noise will magically disappear. Back to top of page Fuller information on the TTR250 Raid Brake Horse Power 33 BHP Engine type 249cc, 4-stroke single, DOHC air-cooled Starter Electric start and optional kickstarter Power 30PS8500RPM Torque 2.8Kg7000RPM Seat Height 875mm Length 2195mm Width 835mm Height 1255mm Wheelbase 1410mm Clearance 300mm Dry Weight 120 kg Economy 47kmlitre at 60 kmph Petrol tank capacity 16 litre Tyre - Front 3.00 - 21 51P Tyre - Rear 4.60 - 18 63P Brakes Hydraulic single disc front and rear Chain DK428VS3 134 Battery GT7B 12V 7AH Sparking plug CR8E, U24ESR-N Sparking plug - alternative CR9E, U27ESR-N Bore x stroke 73.0 x 59.6 Compression 8.5:1 Engine oil 1.0 litre Fork oil 625cc per leg Carb bore 30mm Carb float level 7.5 9.5 Main jet 145 Pilot jet 50 Needle clip Position 3 Idle RPM 1300 4 6 CO2 Valve clearance - In 0.09 0.17mm Valve clearance - Ex 0.19 Simple step-by-step pictorial guides: totallyttrs - quotTotally TTRsquot - an invaluable web page totally dedicated to TTR250 owners looking for parts (new and second hand) and accessories ttr250.activeboard - a busy one makemodel forum for TTR250 owners and enthusiasts to exchange questions, answers, information, and advice. Any one is welcome to talk about dirt and trail bikes, SuperMoto () TTR250s, tuning, racing, maintenance, practice tracks, trails, events, and any other TTR250 - stuff. highlandsyamahaoempartslyam5004564df8700209bc7930162006-tt-r250-ttr250v-parts - Highlands Microfiche On Line - although for the US TTR250, most parts seem remarkably similar to UK models - worth a look Once you have the part numbers then a good bike shop will order the bits and not moan about the TTR being an quotimportquot (to UK owners that is) TTR Heaven (Or trail riding in the Andalucian Mountains) - A tale of my trail riding adventure with ToroTrail in September 2007. Sadly the TTRs were made redundant but ToroTrail found worthy replacements in the Yamaha WR250R. Ride Limousin - Road and Off Road Motorcycle Holidays in France - recommended Torsten and Rowena are great hosts and Torsten has a small fleet of TTR250s to hire out. Jules Classic Adventure. guided tours in exotic Laos - TTR250s available to use Back to top of page A little extra pressie at Xmas A nice little 1:18 scale die cast model TTR250 is available from Hachette in issue 14 of their Mega Bikes fortnightly series - cost a measly 4.99. Obtainable from their Customer Service Hotline - 0870 7297290 (Mon - Fri 9am-5pm). See a pic of the Maisto model here. Also, its worth looking on e-Bay as well as there always seems to be a few models for sale there - got a nice blue one from e-Bay myself only recently Back to top of page TTR250 FAQ compiled by Brian Sussex, Devon, UK Please ask any questions on the TTR250 forum - ttr250.activeboard Whats in the FAQ above is the total knowledge I have acquired to date Click on house for my Home Page if you came directly to this page - the site is mostly off-road stuff
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